All Around Angler

Rigging: Most often rigged with a very light mono main line fished straight to the jig with the fixed float pegged directly above the jig OR a braided main line with an equally light mono bumper (length of bumpber depending on water clarity, speed, etc) attached directly to the braid via Double Uni Knot…again NO terminal weight on this rig. Typical float styles would be Thill Balsas, small Canadian dinks or sliding floats pegged on either side to create a fixed float. Float sizes extra light. Jig sizes typical.

Gear to use: This rig absolutely must be fished on a light spinning outfit as the castability is dependent upon only the relatively insignificant weight of the small float and jig itself, combined. Your total weight when using a typical 1/8oz jig might be 1/4oz. Again that’s jig and bobber combined weight.

Method suggestions/benefits: Position yourself as far away from the target area as you can and place your cast a good distance in advance of the fish’s current location. You’ll most often be using this technique in summer fishing or very low water winter scenarios. Less than ‘walking speed’ is recommended. This method tops out at roughly 3-4 feet preso depth.

Option No. 2: Fixed float tapered shot for weight

Summary: A true Canadian float rig. The fixed float will most likely be a dink (cylindrical soft foam float with angled, plastic coated holes allowing main line to be wrapped candy cane style through and around the float.

Rigging: Similiar to the fixed float no weight described above…this method will use no terminal swivel. You’re either going to run a mono mail line directly to your jig or a bumpered mono section to your braid…then attaching to your jig. Weight used will be tapered split shot sizes 3/0 to BB depending on conditions. The first shot should be placed roughly 18-30″ above the jig based on water clarity.

Gear: Spinning or casting outfit depending on the amount of weight you are using and the casting efficiency of your particular reel.

Method suggestions/benefits: Look for faster riffle water to best suit this float style. Evenly spaced water depth without any large drop offs or slopes. Use this technique where bottom contour is even. Some boulders are okay. If running the dink…make sure you have enough shot to prop the float directly upward. Common bite detection other than typical ‘bobbers down’ will include ‘push strikes’….meaning the float will simply pop up and lay sideways. Hammertime if that happens. (This is my Dad’s favorite method so feel free to ping him here on this comment thread with any questions)

Option No. 3: Sliding float w/ in-line weight

Summary: A must-have technique for winter steelhead anglers fishing in average to moderately high water conditions which may offer a range of depth and speed opportunities.

Rigging: Bobber stop, bead, float, bead, inline sinker (weight with barrel swivel built in on either side) leader, jig. Those of you fishing plastics on jig heads would use this rig almost exclusively.

Gear: Spinning or casting although I honestly recommend spinning outfits for nearly all steelhead float apps. Salmon is a whole different story. Braided main line is my main line suggestion tied directly to the terminal lead (in-line weight) which means your stop, float and beads are on running on the braided main. Typical leader sizes are 8 to 12lb.

Method/Suggestion: By using a 3/8th’s to 1/2oz float and corresponding in-line sinker you are able to present your jig in tougher to reach strike zones the above options won’t allow as easily. Your target water is sunk fast often accommodating a lighter jig a better presentation. I enjoy a lot of 16th’s fished with this method. Many of which dig fish out in very deep water, by jigging standards; 8 to 12 feet specifically. The heavy terminal sinker will get down quick allowing the lighter weight jig to ‘kick out’ behind the sinker. In deeper water you’ll want to fish a longer leader (up to 40″) and in shallower water a shorter leader (18-24″).

Option No. 4: Bobber dogging bait or plastics

Summary: Best suited for nearly blown out conditions or naturally deep, swirly and tough to reach holding water

Rigging: Imagine a typical drift rig (Slinky or pencil lead off of a main terminal swivel) with a moderately long leader..say 36″ or less of course with off colored water…and then add a sliding float system on the main line above it.

Gear: Casting outfits by far works the best for the Doggin’ method due to the need to hold you float in pockets behind boulders or on hard current seams and the constant free spooling required to stay there. Threaded plastics or bait are your best doggin’ options.

Method/Suggestions: You will be setting your bobber stop twice as deep as the water depth you are targeting. A direct contrast to the other Options discussed. The purpose for this is to allow your terminal lead to ping or drag the bottom which will be translated visually to a jerky bobber on the surface. Your bobber should be ‘darting’ quickly up river indicating the lead is in constant contact with the bottom. The fish will chase the plastic as it’s presented drift-style and most often strike as the swing of your drift begins. The fish will always be hooked in the corner of the mouth resulting in very few losses.

Phew. Any questions?


Christopher Heller has been writing bobber fishing articles for sea running fish since 1994 and is the owner/founder of AllAroundAngler.com….a seven year labor of love designed to educate and entertain anglers of all skill levels.

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